by Phil Simborg
4 September 2008

Phil Simborg is a tournament player and teacher from Chicago who admits that after 45 years of playing he still learns something new about the game of Backgammon almost every day.
Like most tournament players I know, I generally apply "money game" thinking in initial cube decisions when the score is 5-away/5-away or greater. Generally, if it is a double or a take for money, I double or take at that score.
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Dear Phil:
Wow! Another wonderful, insightful article.
Signed, Annonymous.
Every day for me too .. nice easy read and effective with your point ! Well Done .. Steve in TO
I have the opposite problem. I am almost exclusively a match player and my judgment of correct money play is "what would I do in a long match tied 0-0. I looked at the position and my gut reaction to the money question was Pass. A very short rollout said Pass by a hair, but way too close and too short to call. That said, you are dead on about the effect of gammons at score and how strongly it can influence decisions - not only cube decisions, but also checker play decisions.
The interesting thing to keep in mind about match play vs. money play when 4-away, 4-away or greater is that gammons are pretty much ALWAYS worth more than in money play, regardless of who is ahead and who is behind on either a centered or 2-cube. The gammon value at score varies greatly - from an upper limit of about twice the money value down to a few cases where it is the same as money (0.50) or perhaps 0.49. But the lesson is that unless you actually know the gammon price at a given match score, you should always assume they are worth more than for money.
Nice article Phil, I generally do the same thing. I will be more aware in the future.
Where does the gammon price .69 come from? Such a specific number must result from some calculation, but I have no idea what calculation. Also, taking the gammon frequency times the gammon price resulted in "6 extra points" in match play at 5-away, 5-away versus money play. What does that mean? If it was only 3 extra points, would it be a take in the match? Does that calculation have any value?
The obvious point of the article is that the effect of gammons is magnified in match play, and adjustments need to be made in evaluating positions which recognize that fact.
One can find the original equations for gammon price in Danny Kleinman's book: Vision Laughs at Counting. Recently the books have been updated with intelligible positional diagrams. @ $85, it is an investment, but I have no doubt that it will improve your game enough to justify the expenditure.
Despite a vast amount of tournament experience, I only became vaguely aware of this concept recently when I heard All Time # 1 American Backgammon Tour points leader Neil Kazaross say something to the effect of having a lower take point at 5 away, 5 away.
Guarding against gammons that get your opponent to Crawford is the backgammon equivalent of the prevent defense.
Here, I might apply some different logic to come to the same conclusion as the bots, however. I realize that I can win from the bar "anchor". However the bar is not really an anchor... Down 48 pips a hit might not even be sufficient to win, you will have to trap and detain the back checker too. Regardless, without the anchor and the HUGE racing disadvantage, when forced to leave a shot White will have the option to attack and even with only a 3 point board, that translates into 25% dances/fans. Other rolls also play awkwardly...
When you consider that this does not constitute White's main threat, (like 44, 33, 31, 11), then you are starting to get the picture.
The most unnerving thing about the position is that it is very simple. Wait for doubles, avoid shots, attack if you can't do either of those things. White would love us to take this, we should not give him his wish!
Every time I think I'm getting there, somebody makes me feel small again.
Hi,
Lovely article (as ever). However, I suspect there is either an error (!) or at least a point that requires clarification.
I think you have neglected to included your own gammon value (in addition to price) into your calculation. As the gammon price is the same as the gammon value at this match score your 'effective gammon rate' isn't 30 but 23. In which case I believe the gammon effect in match play pushes the take point up by 4 relative to the money rather than 6.
Although this seems pedantic if you ignore your gammon value then it would appear to be a pass under money as well as at this match score!
(assuming I got my calculations right...)
You raise an excellent point whaat--when you evaluate your position you consider not only the the number of times you lose and get gammoned, but also the times you win games and win gammons (and backgammons).
In money games this is always much easier as the price of gammons is always .5 for both sides while in match play the price can be different for each side depending on the difference in their score.
I did not go into this in detail in this article as I did not want to make things too complicated--I wanted to make the point that there is a major difference between match and money, and it takes study to understand the differences.
I write pretty much the way I teach--I try to keep it simple and avoid really complicated math. I've been teaching beginner and intermediate players for some 20 years and I find that it's counter-productive to get too deep into the math. As my students progress and become Open players, then I kick them up a level (by passing them off to the very people who have been teaching me, like Perry Gartner, Ray Fogerlund, Mary Hickey, and others).
Thanks for the quick response. I'll certainly defer to your judgment on the teaching front - I find it hard enough trying to figure out what to do, let alone explain it! In contrast you continue to do the latter wonderfully. Thanks again.
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